Guide to Porto Ercole and Porto Santo Stefano

For Luca’s 30th birthday, I surprised him and took him to Porto Ercole in Tuscany’s Monte Argentario. Just a 1 hour and 50-minute drive from Rome, Argentario is an amazing seaside retreat in Tuscany (especially frequented by Romans). Located in Southern Tuscany in the Maremma area bordering the Lazio region, Monte Argentario is a promontory connected to the inland by two strips of sand: the Giannella and the Feniglia, which form a lagoon in the middle known as the Laguna di Orbetello. From Porto Santo Stefano and Porto Ercole to Cala Piccola and Orbetello, there are various places where you can stay. But what are the best things to do in Argentario? From renting a boat for the day to explore the beautiful beach coves and nearby Giglio and Giannutri islands, to dining in yummy restaurants and relaxing in cool beach clubs, here’s my guide to Porto Ercole, Porto Santo Stefano and Monte Argentario in general. 

Where to stay

There are various places where you can stay in Monte Argentario. When I surprised Luca for his birthday we stayed in Porto Ercole, my friend Federica gave me the keys to her beautiful house. But here’s all the options:

Porto Ercole

I think this is the cutest place to stay in Monte Argentario. The harbor is characteristic, there’s a Spanish fortress on one side, and the fact that you can walk pretty much everywhere and forget about your car is really a plus! The port area is filled with restaurants, bars and boat rentals, there are also some cute boutiques. If you want to explore the nearby beach coves you can rent a boat. If instead you want to head to some sandy beaches you need to hop on your car and head to Feniglia, Giannella or Ansedonia.

In general, I’d say that if you want a mix of everything, as well as nightlife, this is a great place to stay in. For the most luxurious experience, stay at Hotel Il Pellicano—this is the real dolce vita style but it’s not right in the center of Porto Ercole. Another fantastic one with access to a nearby beach is La Roqqa. If you want something right in town, check out the Porto Ercole Guest House or the Brezza Marina Guest House.

Porto Santo Stefano

This is the other famous harbor in Monte Argentario. The vibe here is more of a town rather than a seaside port, in fact it’s much bigger than Porto Ercole and it has two harbors. From Porto Santo Stefano you can also catch the ferries to the Giglio and Giannutri islands. There are some beautiful beach coves close to Porto Santo Stefano. In terms of restaurants, there are some good one but in terms of nightlife it’s not as buzzing as Porto Ercole. If you’re searching for a beach hotel you’ll have to go to Baia D’Argento or Hotel Villa Domizia although they’re 2-3km from the town. Otherwise, you can opt for the Bike & Boat Argentario Hotel right in the center.

Cala Piccola

Suppose you’re searching for a secluded sanctuary, with access to the stunning Cala Piccola (one of the most beautiful beach coves of the Argentario, which cannot be accessed by boat). In that case, you should definitely stay in the Cala Piccola resort. There’s a hotel called Hotel Torre di Cala Piccola with a stunning view of the Giglio island and beautiful sun-loungers on terraced rocks that is fresh from a renovation. There’s also a complex of houses that you can rent if you’re planning on staying with more people. Luca’s parents always stay here and it’s really a charm. Romantic and relaxing. It’s also just a short drive from Porto Santo Stefano. Just keep in mind that if you want to go somewhere you’ll need a car or have your hotel call a taxi, you’re not within walking distance from anywhere.

Orbetello

While technically not part of Argentario, Orbetello is the historic town that’s surrounded by the lagoon. If you’d like to immerse yourself in history and you’re more interested in heading to the sandy beaches of Feniglia, Giannella and Ansedonia this is a good place to stay. It’s also easy to explore the nearby Tuscan towns from here. Just make sure to get your accommodation in the historic center. One that my aunt recommended is the charming Noi 2 Vacanze Orbetello Centro, great quality-price ratio. If you need an apartment in Orbetello, there’s the Il Mulino Apartment for up to 4 people. There are also yummy restaurants in Orbetello!

Where to go to the beach

There are plenty of stabilimenti where you can go to the beach. If you like golden sand, Feniglia, Giannella and Ansedonia are the best beach locations in the Argentario. Head to la Capannuccia or Tuscany Bay Beach for trendy beach clubs.

If you prefer a rocky beach, the Isolotto Beach Club (the former Riva del Marchese beach club) in Le Viste area near Porto Ercole is great. This is where I took Luca to the beach on our third day in Argentario. Make sure to reserve in advance (especially for the weekend) or you’ll never find a spot. They offer beach beds and umbrellas either on the beach (very limited and usually for hotel guests of La Roqqa) or on the grass. When you reserve online make sure to specify where you prefer in the notes. They also have a nice restaurant for lunch and bar for sunset aperitif. You can reserve online on their website.

Where to eat in Argentario

While it’s true that finding a good restaurant in Monte Argentario isn’t always easy,  there are exceptions.

Porto Ercole Restaurants

If you’re in Porto Ercole definitely go to Alicina Hostaria for a gourmet meal (beautiful outdoor area, top-quality wine selection and great food). There’s also La Pinta along the lungomare that serves more traditional Italian dishes. And if you want to splurge, reserve dinner at the stunning restaurant of Hotel Pellicano.

Porto Santo Stefano Restaurants

For restaurants in Porto Santo Stefano go to Molo 26, Trattoria il Moletto (the view is better than the food) and I Due Pini (great setting). But these are just a few! There are plenty of restaurants in Ansedonia, Giannella, and Orbetello too! Close to Giannella there’s Ristorante Domizia which has a beautiful view and gourmet cuisine. For more restaurant recommendations, check out my list of best restaurants in Monte Argentario.

Countryside restaurants near Argentario

If you have a car and you’re staying longer than a weekend, I absolutely recommend visiting the Tuscan countryside and dining at one of the cute restaurants. Two restaurants to keep in mind are Casa Ricci, a super cute Agriturismo in Magliano in Toscana with string lights, delicious food and lovely service. Get the cured meats and cheese to start and the octopus salad. For a gourmet meal, head to Da Maria at Capalbio. They have an amazing terrace overlooking the countryside, or a lovely indoor dining room.

Renting a boat in Porto Ercole

Hiring a boat in Argentario is a must during your stay. If you’re in Porto Ercole you can hire a boat at Trillocco. They have boats that require a boat license as well as others that don’t require it. While I was there I rented a 5.6m dinghy with a 40 e-tec engine for €160 (this was the price in July, in August it will surely be more expensive) gas costs not included. Please keep in mind that this is one of the cheapest prices you’ll find, hiring a boat like this can easily cost €250 for the day.

Tip: If you want to easily book your boat in advance without having to go to boat hirers, you can rent one directly online here. Just insert Porto Ercole or Porto Santo Stefano as the destination and you can choose whether you want a boat with or without a skipper. Super easy.

On our boat day we went from Porto Ercole to L’Isola Rossa and back and spent €11 on gas. Make sure to call in advance, especially if you’re coming in high season and on weekends to rent your boat! While it’s more expensive, it’s a completely different experience to explore Monte Argentario by boat. The peninsula is characterized by stunning beach coves, from l’Isola Rossa and Punta Ciana, to Cala Grande and Cala del Gesso.

If you hire a nice boat you could even head to the famous Giannutri (it’s a natural reserve) or Giglio islands! Make sure to ask the boat rental which area of the promontory is best to explore according to the winds!

Tip: If you don’t feel up to driving a boat, you can always opt for a private boat excursion along the Argentario Coast. Super recommended

If you want to grab lunch to take on your boat day, absolutely stop by Sandwich Club in Porto Ercole. From the line outside you’ll know it’s good. They have a menu with panini, salads, and tramezzini that are perfect for taking on your boat. If you’re a large group you can also order the day before and pick them up before heading to the boat rental.

If you enjoyed my tips, check out my guide to the best beach hotels in Italy for more Italian summer inspiration.

Other Activities and Things to Do in Monte Argentario

Monte Argentario’s surrounding region offers incredible experiences for nature lovers, adventure seekers, and culture enthusiasts. Here are some top activities to add to your itinerary:

E-Bike to Capo d’Uomo

Explore Monte Argentario’s rugged beauty with an e-bike ride around Monte Argentario. Leaving town, you’ll climb the promontory’s winding roads, enjoying panoramic sea views before reaching the 350-meter-high Capo d’Uomo tower. From here, the breathtaking lookout over the cliffs and Tyrrhenian Sea makes the effort well worth it.

Horseback Riding on the Beach in Marina di Grosseto

For a unique coastal experience, head to Marina di Grosseto (40 minutes from Porto Santo Stefano) for a horseback ride along the beach. Ride through coastal pine forests and sandy dunes before reaching the shoreline, where you’ll feel the sea breeze as you trot along the water’s edge.

Visit the Giardino dei Tarocchi

Just a short drive from Monte Argentario to Capalbio, Giardino dei Tarocchi (Tarot Garden) is a surreal open-air art park designed by Niki de Saint Phalle. The garden is filled with massive, colorful tarot-inspired sculptures, creating a whimsical dreamlike atmosphere. If you love art or just want a unique experience, this is a must-visit.

Boat Tour Around Giglio Island

Catch a ferry from Porto Santo Stefano to Giglio Island, a Tuscan paradise with crystal-clear waters and scenic cliffs. Once there, explore Giglio Island on a boat tour, stopping at hidden coves like Cala dell’Arenella and Cala delle Caldane for swimming and snorkeling in stunning turquoise waters.

How to get around Monte Argentario

You can find taxis and local buses but I do not recommend using these to get around during the day as buses can be unpredictable and taxis may be hard to find. The best way to move around in Argentario is to rent a car or a scooter. This way, you have the freedom to move around and also explore the beautiful Tuscan inland, which I definitely recommend if you’re here for a longer period and not just for a few days.

Car rental

If you plan on renting a car, I’d recommend booking it from the city you’re coming from instead of renting it at Argentario or Orbetello. The road to get to Argentario from Rome and other cities is safe and straightforward, and you can save up on train costs. Here are a few car rental comparison sites where you can easily book your car from major Italian cities:

• Autoeurope: This car rental company has deals with the biggest car rentals out there. You won’t find the option of renting your car from Argentario or Orbetello, you’ll have to pick up your car from one of the bigger Italian cities like Florence or Rome, for example.

• DiscoverCars: The same goes for Discover Cars, they’re a car rental comparison site. Again, you won’t find the possibility to rent your car directly from Argentario or Orbetello, you’ll have to pick up your car from an Italian city.

If instead, you want to rent a car for the day, the Argentario website lists Agenzia Hertz in Porto Santo Stefano as a reliable option. They also have a car delivery option so you won’t have to go to the pick-up point, they’ll deliver the car for you.

Scooter Rental

If you don’t want to drive to Argentario but you still want to explore it on your own, you could opt for a scooter rental for the day. I haven’t found any in Porto Santo Stefano but if you’re staying in Porto Ercole, you could opt for Dolores Scooter Rental. Their prices start from €40 for the day.

Taxis

If you need to reserve a taxi, you can ask the hotel to call one for you. I have never personally done this as we always go with a car, but the Argentario website listed this taxi driver that you can call.

Buses

Every time I come to Argentario I come with my car so this doesn’t come from personal experience but from researching online. What I’ve seen is that the Tiemme company runs the buses but I’ve also found this website that tells you all the stops and the schedule for each stop for Orbetello – Argentario bus line. Again, I think this is the worst option, especially in the summertime, when there are lots of people and it’s very hot and the buses aren’t known for always being on time.

Staying Connected in Argentario

If you’re traveling from within Europe, your usual mobile plan will likely work in Italy thanks to EU roaming. If you’re visiting from outside Europe, an Italy eSIM is the easiest way to stay connected for maps, beach directions, restaurant bookings, and moving around the area.

If Argentario is part of a wider Italy or multi-country itinerary, a Europe eSIM is usually more practical, since it works seamlessly across borders.

How many days do you need in Monte Argentario?

A long weekend is enough to fall for it. Two nights in Porto Ercole, a boat day, a slow dinner in the countryside. But if you can stay four, five or 7 days, that would be amazing, you’ll have time to truly disconnect, drive into the Maremma countryside and enjoy the whole area.

Porto Ercole or Porto Santo Stefano: where should I stay?

Porto Ercole, if you want the smaller harbor, the dolce-vita feel. Porto Santo Stefano is bigger and more of a working town, with the ferries to Giglio and Giannutri.

When is the best time to visit Argentario?

From June to September is the sweet spot. Warm sea, long days, and far fewer people than the August wall-to-wall crowds, when half of Rome arrives. Remember to book things in advance, especially for August.

Do you need a car in Argentario?

Having a car is the best option. Taxis are hard to find, so a car (or a scooter for the day) is what gives you the freedom to reach the beaches and the inland towns. I’d rent it from Rome or Florence rather than locally, since it’s cheaper and the drive in is easy. Make sure your hotel has a parking spot available or you’ll go crazy trying to find one.

Is Monte Argentario worth visiting?

If you want a stretch of Tuscan coast that Italians have kept a little to themselves, with secluded coves you reach by boat, real seafood, and a Spanish fortress over the harbor, then yes, completely.