The coast south of the Amalfi Coast that Italians have been quietly keeping to themselves
Every time I mentioned I was going to the Amalfi Coast, my former boss would tell me exactly the same thing. “You need to go to Cilento.” Every single time. He grew up there, and no matter how many times I visited Positano, Amalfi or Ravello, he insisted that one day I had to keep driving south.
It took me almost a decade to finally listen. This June, Luca and I spent a long weekend exploring a small corner of Cilento. Before we go any further, I want to be completely transparent. Cilento is a huge area, and during this trip I only explored its northern stretch, around Ogliastro Marina, Santa Maria di Castellabate and Castellabate.
Originally, I would have loved to continue south toward Palinuro, Marina di Camerota, Acciaroli and Sapri, especially because nearly everyone I spoke to told me that’s where you’ll find some of Cilento’s most spectacular beaches and clearest water.
But coming from Rome for just a long weekend, it simply wasn’t realistic. Google Maps told us the drive would take just under four hours. Reality was closer to five, with traffic and one stop along the way. Continuing another two hours south would have meant spending more time in the car than actually enjoying the trip, which completely defeated the purpose of a relaxing weekend away.
So rather than rushing through the entire region, we decided to slow down and properly enjoy one small corner of it. Think of this article as the first chapter of a guide I’ll keep expanding over the coming years as I explore more of Cilento. So, is Cilento worth visiting? Absolutely, and here’s everything I’d want to know before going.
Cilento vs the Amalfi Coast: What’s the Difference?
If you’ve never heard of Cilento before, it’s the stretch of coastline that begins just south of Salerno and extends all the way toward Sapri, within the Cilento, Vallo di Diano and Alburni National Park. While the Amalfi Coast tends to attract an international audience, Cilento has traditionally remained a favorite summer destination for Italians.
Although the Amalfi Coast and Cilento belong to the same region of Campania and are separated by little more than Salerno, they offer completely different landscapes and experiences.
The Amalfi Coast is dramatic. Villages cling to impossibly steep cliffs, colorful houses cascade toward the sea, and every road seems to hug the edge of a mountain. Everything is built vertically, stacked on top of itself, so you’re constantly moving up or down. Cilento feels softer and flatter along the coastline itself, but it makes up for it with mountains and green hills rolling behind the towns. The villages aren’t built vertically in the same way. They feel more spacious, more spread out and more connected to the surrounding countryside.
I absolutely love the Amalfi Coast and I’ll keep returning for the rest of my life. Cilento simply offers something different. The hospitality is just as warm. The food is just as unforgettable. The long dinners, lively piazzas, beach clubs and golden sunsets all have that unmistakable southern Italian magic.
What changes is the atmosphere, and I want to push back gently on something I kept reading before this trip. A lot of articles call Cilento “Italy’s best kept secret” or an “underrated gem“. Having actually been there, I don’t think that’s quite accurate. It isn’t empty and it isn’t undiscovered. It’s simply discovered by different people. The beaches were full, the restaurants needed reservations, and the towns were lively well into the evening. What’s missing isn’t visitors, it’s foreign visitors. I barely heard another language spoken the entire weekend. It felt less like a secret and more like a destination Italians have quietly kept for themselves for decades, which if anything makes it more interesting, not less.
That was probably the biggest surprise of the trip. It didn’t feel like I had discovered Italy’s best kept secret. It felt like I had discovered another version of Italy, one written in a language I already understood.
Do You Need a Car in Cilento?
Yes, and I’ll say it early because it matters more than almost anything else in this guide. Don’t come to Cilento without a car. The towns are spread out along a coastline with no real train or bus network connecting them conveniently, and many of the best beaches, restaurants and viewpoints are only reachable by road. If you’re not driving yourself and don’t want to hire a driver for the week, I honestly wouldn’t recommend this trip yet. This isn’t a region you hop between towns on foot or by ferry the way you might along parts of the Amalfi Coast.
How Many Days Do You Need in Cilento?
One week is genuinely the minimum, and here’s why. We only had three nights, and because we don’t like rushing when we travel, we made a deliberate choice. We spent our days doing nothing more ambitious than enjoying our hotel’s beach, taking out the canoe, trying the SUP, and swimming whenever we felt like it. Then, once the heat eased in the early evening, we’d get in the car and explore. One night in Santa Maria di Castellabate, the next in Castellabate itself.
That rhythm worked beautifully for three days, but there’s an entire side of Cilento we didn’t even touch: hiking. The interior is full of trails through the national park, connecting mountain villages, old monasteries and lookout points we simply didn’t have time to reach.
Between the coastline, the villages and the trails, one week gives you room to actually slow down instead of packing everything into a couple of exhausting days. We only saw the north, and it was spectacular. I’d bet the south, around Palinuro and Marina di Camerota, is too. Give yourself the time to find out.
Santa Maria di Castellabate: My Favorite First Impression of Cilento
The first place we explored was Santa Maria di Castellabate, and I couldn’t have imagined a better introduction to Cilento. If I had to describe it in one sentence, I’d say this: it felt exactly how I picture an Italian summer.
We arrived in the early evening and parked near Piazza Matarazzo, where there’s both street parking and a large public car park nearby. One thing I noticed almost immediately is that the locals don’t leave the beach early. In June, the sun doesn’t set until around 8:45pm, so when we arrived at about 7pm, most people were still swimming, reading under their umbrellas or chatting by the sea. That actually worked in our favor, because finding parking was much easier than I expected. If parking makes you nervous, arrive a little earlier than the locals do and you’ll have your pick of spots.
From there, we simply started walking. The corso, or main street, is lined with little boutiques, cafés, gelato shops and restaurants, and every few meters another little side street seems to lead back towards the sea. Right along the town beach, we came across what looked like an old fortress or palazzo, sitting right at the water’s edge. Walking around it led us onto a proper lungomare with a handful of restaurants and bars, several of which also had front row seats for sunset.
There wasn’t any grand monument or famous attraction, at least not one I could name. It was simply lovely. Families were strolling along the promenade. Children were playing football on the beach. Groups of friends were gathering for aperitivo. Everything felt incredibly alive without ever feeling hectic. That’s probably the biggest difference I noticed compared with many of Italy’s more famous seaside destinations. Tourism is certainly here, but life doesn’t seem to revolve around tourists. It still feels like a town where Italians come to spend their summers.
We stated the evening with an aperitivo at L’Arco, watching the sun disappear into the Tyrrhenian Sea. I’ve been lucky enough to see sunsets all over Italy, and this one genuinely stopped me in my tracks. The sky turned every shade of orange, pink and crimson imaginable, reflecting across the water until the entire coastline seemed to glow. It was one of those sunsets that makes conversation naturally fade away. If you’re visiting Santa Maria di Castellabate, time your evening around sunset. It’s worth it. Since Osteria 1861 was fully booked and it was the restaurant we really wanted to try, we decided to wing it and we ended up in a pizzeria called Arlecchino, which was also very full!
Castellabate: One of Italy’s Most Beautiful Villages
The following evening we drove up to Castellabate itself, which sits above the coast rather than on it, giving you a completely different kind of view over the promontory, the sea and the mountains all at once. If you’ve ever watched Benvenuti al Sud, you’ll recognize it immediately. In fact, while we were visiting, they were filming the sequel, Bentornati al Sud, which made walking through the streets even more surreal. We ended up at the same restaurant as one of the actors that evening, which is a story for another time.
Perched high above the coastline, Castellabate is officially one of I Borghi più belli d’Italia, a title given to some of the country’s most beautiful historic villages. It’s impossible to disagree. The entire village feels like a perfectly preserved little jewel. Flower filled balconies spill over narrow stone streets. Tiny bars and restaurants occupy old courtyards. Every few minutes another panoramic terrace opens onto spectacular views stretching across the sea and the green hills of Cilento. It’s the sort of place where you constantly stop walking, not because you’re tired, but because every corner deserves another photograph.
We had reserved dinner at Ristorante Bonora, with stunning views of the coastline. What I’ll remember most about our evening here wasn’t the food, although it was delicious, it was how it felt. As the sun slowly disappeared over dinner, the breeze drifted across the terrace and the lights below gradually began to switch on, I had one of those travel moments that catches you completely by surprise. Nothing extraordinary was happening, we were simply eating dinner. And yet I found myself feeling unexpectedly emotional. Maybe it was the view, maybe it was the wine, maybe it was simply one of those evenings where everything comes together at exactly the right moment. Whatever it was, it’s the memory I brought home with me.
The Best Things to Do in Cilento (From Someone Who’s Actually Been)
Take a Canoe or SUP Along the Coast
One afternoon we took one of our hotel’s complimentary canoes. Instead of staying on the beach, Luca and I paddled along the coastline toward the Punta di Ogliastro. Punta Licosa was a little further away, so we didn’t reach it that day, but Punta di Ogliastro was amazing on its own. The sea became clearer and clearer, and rocky coves appeared one after another. Every now and then we’d stop paddling, jump into the water for a swim, climb back onto the canoe and simply float.
For almost an hour and a half, no music, no phones, just the sound of the waves gently washing against the rocks and the constant chorus of cicadas coming from the pine trees along the shore. It was one of those moments where absolutely nothing happens and you wish it would never end.
If you’re staying anywhere near this part of Cilento, I can’t recommend getting out onto the water enough. Whether it’s a canoe, a kayak or a paddleboard, seeing this coastline from the sea completely changes the experience.
Book a Boat Trip Towards Punta Licosa
If I could give you just one piece of advice after this trip, it would be this. Don’t only experience Cilento from the beach. See it from the water. The easiest option is to ask your hotel to organize a boat trip. Most hotels work with local skippers and can arrange either private or shared excursions, and they’ll usually give you a quote based on where you want to go. Our hotel, for example, offered trips to both Punta Licosa and as far as Palinuro. I genuinely wanted to do it, but by that point in the weekend Luca was ready to do absolutely nothing but relax, so we saved it for next time. If you’re better at pacing your trip than we were, book it.
You can also book directly with operators you’ll find along many of the beaches, where locals advertise daily boat tours right on the sand. And if you’re comfortable driving a boat yourself, that’s probably what I’d actually recommend. In Italy, you don’t need a boating license for boats with engines of up to 40 horsepower, which makes it surprisingly easy to rent a small boat and explore at your own pace.
Punta Licosa itself is wrapped in mythology. According to legend, this is where one of the Sirens tried to lure Ulysses during his journey home in the Odyssey. Standing on the coastline, listening to the waves and the wind moving through the trees, it’s surprisingly easy to understand why stories like that have survived for thousands of years. Locals also told us that submerged archaeological remains lie beneath the water nearby, possibly the ruins of an ancient temple. We searched for them without much success, though I suspect we simply didn’t have the right coordinates.
Visit a Caseificio for Fresh Mozzarella di Bufala
One thing you absolutely can’t leave Cilento without doing is visiting a caseificio, the Italian word for a dairy that produces fresh mozzarella di bufala. Thanks to my grandmother’s side of the family, I grew up taking mozzarella very seriously. Her father was from Campania, so from an early age I learned how to judge a good one. You can tell the moment you cut into it, from the texture, the way the milk gently escapes and the consistency of the curd.
Campania is the birthplace of mozzarella di bufala, and this part of the region is one of the best places to experience it. As you drive through Cilento, you’ll pass countless caseifici, each producing fresh mozzarella every single day. The most famous is Tenuta Vannulo, just outside Paestum. It’s much more than a dairy. Here you can actually visit the farm, learn about the production process, enjoy a tasting and, of course, buy their mozzarella.
One important tip: reserve in advance. Not only do the tours fill up, but even the mozzarella itself often sells out before the day is over. We arrived hoping to buy some without a reservation and were told all they had left was ricotta. Fortunately, there are plenty of fantastic caseifici nearby. We stopped at another local dairy close by, filled a cooler bag with mozzarella and drove back to Rome very happy, and with enough to share with friends.
Go Wine Tasting at Azienda Agricola San Salvatore
One of the best discoveries of this trip happened at the dinner table. While we were having dinner at Il Cefalo, we ordered a bottle from Azienda Agricola San Salvatore, a local organic winery with vineyards near the temples of Paestum and up in the hills of Stio, inside the national park. We chose the Gioì Extreme, a metodo classico made with 100% aglianico grapes, and it completely surprised me. Aglianico is the great red grape of Campania, so tasting it as an elegant, bone dry sparkling wine felt like meeting an old friend in a completely new outfit.
The good news is that you don’t have to wait for a restaurant wine list to try it. San Salvatore welcomes visitors for winery tours and tastings, which makes it an easy stop to combine with Paestum or a caseificio visit. We didn’t have time to go ourselves this trip, but it’s already on my list for when I come back.
Day Trip to Paestum
Although this trip focused on the coast, it’s impossible to talk about Cilento without mentioning Paestum. Home to some of the best preserved ancient Greek temples anywhere in the world, it’s one of the region’s most important historical sites and an easy stop if you’re driving from Rome. I actually visited it years before this trip, and it’s absolutely worth adding to your itinerary. If you’re visiting during summer, go early in the morning before the heat becomes intense, and if history interests you, a guide makes a huge difference.
Where to Stay in Cilento
Because Cilento is such a large region, I actually wouldn’t base myself in just one place if I were staying for a week or more. I’d spend a few nights around Santa Maria di Castellabate, then move further south to either Palinuro or Marina di Camerota. That way, you can experience both the northern and southern parts of Cilento without spending hours driving every day.
In Santa Maria di Castellabate
This is probably the best base in the north if you want to walk everywhere. You can stroll to restaurants, bars, the beach and the promenade without ever needing the car once you’ve arrived.
One hotel that caught my attention as we were walking along the promenade was the Grand Hotel Santa Maria. I didn’t stay there, so I can’t review the rooms, but walking past it every evening made me think it occupies one of the best positions in town. It has its own private beach, which becomes a real advantage during the busy summer months since the public beach tents fill up fast, and it’s only a short walk from the center.
Right on the same lungomare, Torre Perrotti is another option worth knowing about. It’s a collection of suites and apartments set directly on Lungomare Tommaso Perrotti, in the heart of Santa Maria di Castellabate, with some rooms overlooking the sea and others facing a quieter internal garden. It’s a good middle ground if you want to be steps from the water without paying for a full resort experience.
And if you’d rather stay somewhere with real history behind it, Palazzo Belmonte is the one to look at. It was originally built in the 17th century as the hunting lodge of the Prince of Belmonte, and the family’s descendants still live in one wing of the building today. It sits within five acres of gardens that lead straight down to a private beach on the stretch of coast toward Punta Licosa, and the atmosphere is closer to staying in a noble family’s home than in a conventional hotel.
One more worth mentioning is Residenza d’Epoca 1861, the boutique hotel attached to Bistrot 1861. It’s a small, six-room property set right on the seafront, with an elegant, calm atmosphere and sea views from most of the rooms. Given how much I enjoyed the restaurant, staying just upstairs from it is a genuinely appealing idea for next time.
In Ogliastro Marina
Another property I had originally hoped to stay at was Albeca Boutique Hotel, tucked between Ogliastro Marina and Santa Maria di Castellabate. Unfortunately it was fully booked for our dates. Surrounded by nature and overlooking the sea, it felt peaceful, intimate and exactly the sort of place I’d book for a relaxing, private escape. It’s definitely at the top of my list for next time.
For this trip, we stayed at Il Cefalo in Ogliastro Marina. It’s worth knowing upfront that this isn’t a luxury hotel. In fact, it feels more like an excellent seafood restaurant that later added a small number of guest rooms, just twelve in total. The rooms are simple and the atmosphere is relaxed and family run, and everyone we met was genuinely warm and welcoming. But the beach directly in front of the hotel is quite small, with space for just a single row of sun loungers, and had more algae than I would have liked. So if spending long days on the beach is a priority, I’d personally opt for somewhere else.
That said, Giuseppe, the hotel’s bagnino (lifeguard), suggested we borrow one of the complimentary canoes and paddle towards Punta di Ogliastro instead of spending the afternoon on the beach.
We followed his advice, and it honestly felt like we’d entered a completely different world.
This stretch of coastline forms part of the Santa Maria di Castellabate Marine Protected Area, a 7,000 hectare reserve within the Cilento, Vallo di Diano and Alburni National Park, created to protect one of the most biodiverse corners of the Cilento coast. Beneath the surface are vast meadows of Posidonia oceanica, an underwater seagrass that creates the perfect habitat for countless species of fish and marine life, which helps explain why the water here feels so incredibly alive.
As we paddled further along the coast, the water became clearer and clearer, little rocky coves appeared one after another, and for the next hour and a half it was just Luca and me. Every now and then we’d stop paddling, jump into the sea for a swim, climb back onto the canoe and simply drift.
No music. No phones. Just the sound of the waves, the chorus of cicadas coming from the pine trees, and every so often, church bells echoing across the coastline. It ended up being one of my favorite moments of the entire trip and completely changed my opinion of this stretch of the Cilento coast.
Had we stayed on the beach, I would probably have left with a completely different impression. Getting out onto the water revealed an entirely different side of Ogliastro Marina, one that felt wild, peaceful and surprisingly untouched.
Where to Eat in Cilento near Castellabate
- Il Cefalo, Ogliastro Marina. The best meal of our entire trip: exceptional seafood, a standout prawn and seafood pasta, and wonderful service. Dinner for two with wine came to around 190 euros. Even if you’re not staying here, book a table, and if you’re arriving by boat, they also do lunch for people mooring nearby.
- Ristorante Bonora, Castellabate. Excellent seafood, memorable pasta and mains, and a fantastic wine list, all with a terraced view over the coast at sunset. Dinner for two with wine came to around 170 euros. Book ahead and ask specifically for an outdoor table facing the sunset, since it fills up fast in summer.
- Bistrot 1861, Santa Maria di Castellabate. Elegant without being overly formal, with beautifully presented seafood and a contemporary, curated take on local ingredients.
- L’Arco, Santa Maria di Castellabate. Our aperitivo spot on our first night, right as the sun went down. Come for the sunset, stay for the drinks.
Practical Tips for Visiting Cilento
- Rent a car, or arrange a driver. Cilento’s towns are spread out with no real public transport connecting them.
- Stay for at least a week if you can. Three nights gave me enough time to fall in love with the area. It wasn’t enough to explore the coast properly, let alone the hiking trails inland.
- Book restaurants ahead, and be specific. Especially in Castellabate. If you want an outdoor terrace overlooking the sunset, say so when you reserve.
- Explore from the sea. Whether it’s a canoe, kayak, paddleboard or boat, don’t only experience Cilento from land. Ask your hotel for a quote on a boat trip toward Punta Licosa or further south toward Palinuro.
- Reserve your mozzarella, not just your table. Popular caseifici like Tenuta Vannulo sell out by early afternoon in high season.
- Stay connected. Get your eSIM for Italy to have mobile data throughout your trip.
How Expensive Is Cilento?
Prices vary depending on what you’re doing. A relaxed pizzeria dinner with drinks came to around 50 euros for two people. A polished seafood dinner with wine landed somewhere between 170 and 200 euros for two, and 30 euros for two sunbeds and an umbrella.
So, Is Cilento Worth Visiting?
Absolutely. Just don’t come expecting another Amalfi Coast, and don’t come expecting a secret nobody else knows about. Come expecting something completely different: long aperitivos that slowly turn into dinner, little piazzas filled with families enjoying the evening, villages that seem almost untouched by time, seafood you’ll still be thinking about weeks later, sunsets that make an entire promenade stop and watch, and the kind of Italian summer that feels like it belongs in an old film, mostly because the people filling it are Italian.
I only explored a tiny corner of Cilento, but I already know I’ll be back. Next time, I want to continue south, discover the beaches around Palinuro and Marina di Camerota, finally get out on that boat, try some of the hiking trails inland, and keep adding to this guide. Everything you’ll read here comes from places I’ve actually experienced myself, and I’ll keep updating it as I return.
What I’ll Remember Most About Cilento
When I think back on this trip, I don’t immediately think about a particular restaurant or beach. I think about the feeling.
I think about paddling along the coastline with Luca in our canoe while little boats drifted nearby and families spent the afternoon swimming together. I think about children calling out to their parents from the water. “Dad! Look at me!” I think about the breeze carrying the scent of pine trees, the sound of the waves gently hitting the rocks, the constant chorus of cicadas, and every so often, church bells echoing across the coastline. It’s funny how those sounds become part of a place.
Cilento has a rhythm that feels deeply Italian. It’s a place where traditions still seem woven into everyday life. Throughout the region you’ll find religious festivals, processions and celebrations that have been taking place for generations. Even if you don’t happen to visit during one, you can still feel that sense of community and continuity. In a world where so many destinations have become increasingly international, polished and fast paced, there was something incredibly refreshing about that.
And perhaps that’s what surprised me most. Cilento isn’t just a coastline. It’s rolling hills covered in olive groves. It’s mountain villages and hiking trails. It’s buffalo farms producing some of Italy’s finest mozzarella. It’s ancient Greek temples and protected marine reserves. It’s fishing villages and an entire region that deserves far more time than a long weekend can possibly offer.
Cilento FAQ
Is Cilento worth visiting?
Yes. It won’t give you the dramatic cliffside views of the Amalfi Coast, but it offers something just as memorable: warm hospitality, incredible seafood, and a slower, more authentic Italian summer that’s still largely defined by locals rather than tourists.
Is Cilento better than the Amalfi Coast?
It depends what you’re after. The Amalfi Coast is more dramatic and more polished, Cilento is softer, calmer and far less international. I love both for different reasons, and I wouldn’t call either objectively better.
Do you need a car to visit Cilento?
Yes. Cilento’s towns are spread along a long stretch of coastline with no reliable train or bus network connecting them. Without a car, or a private driver, you’ll struggle to see much beyond wherever you’re staying.
How many days do you need in Cilento?
One week is genuinely the minimum if you want to see both the coast and the hiking trails inland. Three nights is enough to fall in love with the area, but not enough to explore it properly.
Is Cilento touristy?
It’s popular, just not with international travelers. The beaches and restaurants get busy in summer, but almost entirely with Italians. If you’re looking for a quiet, empty coastline, this isn’t quite that.
What is Cilento known for?
Cilento is known for its mozzarella di bufala, the ancient Greek temples at Paestum, the Cilento, Vallo di Diano and Alburni National Park, and towns like Acciaroli that are famous for the longevity of their residents.
Where should you stay in Cilento for a first visit?
Santa Maria di Castellabate is the easiest base for a first trip. It’s walkable, close to Castellabate, and has a good mix of hotels, restaurants and beach access without needing to drive every evening.
How do you get to Cilento from Rome
By car, allow around 4 to 5 hours depending on traffic. Google Maps will estimate closer to 4, but count on 5 once you factor in stops and summer traffic near Salerno.
Is Cilento expensive?
Yes, it is. A relaxed pizzeria dinner for two runs around 50 euros, while a polished seafood dinner with wine lands between 170 and 200 euros for two. Sunbeds and an umbrella cost around 30 euros for the day.
