Where to eat in Umbria: the best restaurants
I just came back from a spectacular long weekend in Umbria and I gotta say, the more I spend time in the “green heart of Italy” the more I fall in love with it. If you’ve been reading my blog and following me on Instagram, you’ve probably noticed that I spend quite a lot of time in Umbria. Why is that? It’s because I also have Umbrian origins, and a spectacular family home in Assisi! My grandfather’s family was from Umbria but lived in Rome. During WWII, my grandfather was sent to live in Assisi for safety reasons, and since then, he eternally fell in love with Umbria. So ever since I can remember, our house in Assisi has been a meeting point, a base to explore Umbria, a place to live our family traditions. So there’s why I go to Umbria quite a lot! And recently, I’ve been to some amazing restaurants in Umbria. Foodies, take notes!
Restaurants in Todi: Relais Todini
This place is a dream come true. We went to Relais Todini for Easter lunch, and we couldn’t have made a better choice. As you drive into the ancient hamlet’s entrance, spotted by scenic cypress trees, you can’t feel but joy. The views are jaw-dropping, the Umbrian countryside right before your eyes, the vineyards and olive groves all around. You pull up this charming driveway and there you have it, Relais Todini. While it’s also a hotel and spa, Relais Todini has an exquisite restaurant you have to try! Step inside to find a beautiful renovated dining room with an open kitchen and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the Umbrian valley. Order from an amazing menu which comprises both international and local dishes. I can’t stop thinking about the delicious lasagnetta with artichokes and pecorino cheese fondue, to die for! And don’t get me started on the Chianina cappellacci with a black truffle sauce! Definitely a place to to go for a a wow food experience!
Address: Vocabolo Cervara – Collevalenza, Todi
Average price: €50+
Restaurants in Torgiano: Da Siro
In February, my sister and our friend Giorgia decided to go to Assisi to celebrate Giorgia’s birthday. On our last day there, we wanted to stop somewhere along the road for a yummy goodbye lunch! My aunt suggested we go to a restaurant in Torgiano called “Da Siro”. While the town of Torgiano isn’t very beautiful, that restaurant has become one of my all-time favorite places in Umbria! The food is delicious, the service is friendly and the whole atmosphere is fun and laid back. We had a cold cuts and cheese board to start, accompanied by small fried bread called gnocco fritto – A MUST ORDER! We had a glass of local red wine coming from the famous Lungarotti winery situated just footsteps from the restaurant! I really recommend it, it’s called L’U and it’s the perfect red! I then had a wonderful plate of boar pappardelle and Giulia and Giorgia had some yummy first courses! The thing that shocked us the most was the price, it was ridiculous, we practically didn’t spend anything for what we ate! I can’r recommend this place enough, and don’t forget to visit the Lungarotti winery while you’re there!
Address: Via Giordano Bruno 16, Torgiano
Average price: €25+
Restaurants in Montefalco: Locanda del Teatro
On a beautiful spring or summer day, this is the place to go. Located in Montefalco, Locanda del Teatro is a beautiful restaurant inside the lushes Palazzo Bontadosi. Walk down the stairs until you’re greeted by a wonderful garden with views across the Umbrian valley and vineyards. It’s a place where you can relax, enjoy a glass of prosecco and order delicacies that will literally make you book your table for the next evening. I know we did! The menu changes according to the season, so always expect something new. But if you happen to read tuna tartare with lime and ginger on the menu you MUST order it, it’s sensational. While if you’re a truffle lover, I suggest you start out with the poached egg served on parmesan zabaglione with fine black truffle flakes, you’ll just want more and MORE! But before you make up your mind, make sure to have heard the specials of the day! The way the head waiter passionately describes each dish is enchanting, and really gets your appetite going!
Address: Piazza del Comune, 19, Montefalco
Average price: €45+
Restaurants in Lake Trasimeno: Sottovento
While Umbria is known for its yummy meat dishes, whenever you crave some amazing seafood, Sottovento restaurant is the place to go to. The region of Umbria isn’t on the seaside, but it definitely has one of the most beautiful lakes in Italy: Lago Trasimeno. On the lovely lakeside of Passignano sul Trasimeno, you’ll find this elegant restaurant where you’ll savour quality Mediterranean seafood. All the fish is delivered on a daily basis and is super fresh. Definitely try the yummy risotto alla crema di scampi con tartufo, risotto with truffles and prawn cream, and if you like seafood cruditè, this is the place to order them! The wine selection is also extensive and the service is professional. Make sure to ask for a lakefront table when you reserve and don’t forget to visit the beautiful Borgo di Passignano after lunch!
Address: Via Pompili Aganor 37, Passignano sul Trasimeno
Average price: €45+
Restaurants in Bastia Umbra: La Favorita
Just a short drive from Assisi in Bastia Umbra, you’ll find this beautiful casale serving amazing Emilia-Romagna cuisine. If you recall from my Foodie Guide to Bologna, Emilia Romagna has one of the best cuisines in Italy. And being able to savour it in Umbria at this cozy and charming restaurant is surely a great treat! Step inside the warm dining room with wood-beamed ceilings and stacks of wine bottles and you’ll completely feel at home. The service is friendly, the wine selection extensive and the food delicious. Start out with the gnocco fritto with mortadella!! You’ll thank me later!
Address: Via Andrea Costa 18/20, Bastia Umbra
Average price: €40+
Restaurants in Assisi
If you’re exploring the culinary landscape of Assisi, there are a few gems you simply can’t miss. Trattoria Pallotta offers a cozy and familiar atmosphere with dishes like cappellacci al pecorino and rosemary beef tagliata that are sure to delight. Osteria del Mulino nestled in the Bosco di San Francesco, is perfect for those seeking a nature-infused dining experience. While for a more intimate yet trendy dining experience Il Vicoletto is the place to go. For more on these and other top dining spots, don’t miss my full guide on the best restaurants in Assisi. And if you’re looking for a more complete experience, check out my articles on the top accommodations in Assisi and my guide to Assisi.
Restaurants in Bevagna
Bevagna is a picturesque town that captivates with its medieval charm, cobbled streets, and vibrant local culture. It’s a place where history and culinary delights intertwine, offering a quaint yet unforgettable experience for visitors. For meat lovers, Scottadito Osteria Tagliavento is a must-visit in Bevagna. This restaurant features its own macelleria, specializing in perfectly grilled meat dishes. From the renowned fiorentina to a succulent tagliata, paired with a cozy red wine, it’s a carnivore’s delight. Remember, reservations are highly recommended to secure a spot in this popular eatery. Seafood aficionados will find their haven at Ottavi Mare. Although small in size, this cozy establishment packs a punch with its array of delectable seafood dishes. Nanticchia Enoteca del Corso offers a unique experience as a wine bar with an exceptional wine selection. Here, you can enjoy a relaxed atmosphere with a variety of appetizing bites perfect for aperitivo, or delve into their pasta offerings like the homemade cappelletti al tartufo. Just a few kilometers from Bevagna, in the tiny hilltop town of Torre del Colle with its lovely views and less than 40 inhabitants, you’ll find the exquisite Serpillo restaurant. Notably featured in the Michelin guide, Serpillo offers Italian cuisine with a contemporary twist. Given its popularity and limited seating, calling ahead to reserve is a must.
Restaurants in Parco del Monte Subasio: Le Silve
Off the beaten path near Assisi, Le Silve is an Umbrian countryside retreat with everything one could wish for. The place is completely immersed in nature, offering stunning views of the hills and vineyards. It has a pool, tennis courts, guest rooms and a wonderful restaurant, perfect for all foodies out there! In the summer, dine out in the open, while in the chilly winter and autumn months, you’re accommodated in a cozy dining room with wood-beamed ceilings, a fireplace and bricked walls. That Umbrian charm completely kicks in. And the food is to die for! Le Silve places particular attention to seasonal products, and the menu reflects that. I’ve spent many Easter lunches here, and my aunt even got married here! Just a heads up, reaching this restaurant requires a reservation as well as going up Mount Subasio, there’s a trail that is difficult with the car so if you don’t have a good car don’t go here.
Address: Armenzano di Assisi
Average price: €50+
All inclusive foodie vacations with Culture Discovery
Forget all the hassle in planning the perfect trip and spend a dream week in Umbria and Tuscany with Culture Discovery–a family-run tour company that offers authentic tours in Italy. Spend 8 days harvesting olives, making extra virgin olive oil, truffle hunting, exploring wineries, local restaurants and sights. I’ve recently joined them for the olive oil harvest and the experience couldn’t have been better. Culture Discovery truly offers wonderful tours where you can live like a true Italian during the duration of your trip. You’ll learn to cook Italian food, you’ll visit stunning towns and you’ll completely immerse yourself in Italian culture. Everything (except for your flight and transportation to reach the location) is included in the price, that means meals, excursions, activities, wine and drinks too! Plus, meet amazing people along the way. A special thanks to Rocky, Carla, Daniele and Ilaria for some great times.